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But, as Cotton and Hutson assert, no twists can make up for unappealing atmosphere or inappropriate service, even if perceptions about what that atmosphere and that service should be may be changing. So where does that leave classic country house hotels, as opposed to "contemporary classics"? Cotton fears that the climate is increasingly difficult for them, especially outside holiday periods, when the recent impetus to stay in Britain has helped to fill rooms. The customary "grey market" that takes over in low season is less stable than it was, given low returns on interest rates and pension problems; and the corporate market, good for many weekday reservations, has shrunk dramatically. Perhaps though, this gloomy scenario has a silver lining. While the slew of refreshing new budget hotels has revived the domestic market, many traditional country house hotels have rested on their laurels for too long, offering creaky service and poor value for money (top-end country hotels have a habit of asking exorbitant London prices that are often hard to justify). Now they must raise their game and improve their appeal in order to survive. Five top traditional country house hotels Gravetye Manor, West Sussex (01342 810567; www.gravetyemanor.co.uk ; from 220) Dignified and endearing; run in the same time-eluding way for over 40 years. วัดจันทร์ บางกรวย Hambleton Hall (01572 756991; www.hambletonhall.com; from 205) Nothing much changes either at this gracious hotel overlooking Rutland Water. Thank heavens. Sharrow Bay, Ullswater (01768 486301; www.sharrowbay.co.uk; from 200) Like a country house hotel museum: preserved in aspic by new owners Von Essen, down to the velveteen armchairs and Coulson's "icky sticky toffee pudding".
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